Yubang village

After a quick goodbye to Mauro who was frantically searching for his camera (a potentially devastating loss as he was packing many of the best photos from the gorge) I jumped on a mini van headed for Dequin. Being full of Asians with big cameras (all on auto mode of course) we stopped at any hint of a picture opportunity so they could snap endless photos of the same scene from a slightly different angles, this was until the driver bored of this game and settled for their whinging if we happened to miss another potential photo shoot. The drive through the mountains to the small trekking town of Felasi was beautiful as we navigated the seemingly dangerous mountain pass above 4,000m. I didn't bother taking any pics as the guy next to me with the big camera said he would email some of his best shots, yet to happen.

Felasi is a stopoff for trekkers who are either about to begin or finishing up an adventure, it is also rumoured to provide a great view snow mountains with golden peaks at sunrise if the conditions are right. I washed my one pair of socks (which was now going to have to last at least 8 nights) and spent the next hour trying to dry them using the communal blow dryer, sorry girls. Our morning view was a little cloudy although the hostel staff said we were lucky to get a view at all this this time of year considering it was rainy season. At 7am I bundled in to a mini van with 3 Chinese girls, an American bloke, a German bloke and 2 czech girls as we made the 45 minute journey out to Xidang Hot Springs where the trek would begin. We all intended to set out together although the Chinese girls were quickly left behind to crawl at their own pace.

The days 6 hour hike was through a beautiful Chinese pine forest with the most challenging section a 1.5hr climb of 1,800m. Along the way we passed numerous pits stops selling boxed noodles for a carb dose, minus any nutritional value. Some of us were smart enough to bring our own noodles after hearing the food can be quite sparse and expensive, the locals were clued on to this and wanted to charge more than double the price of the noodles for a small amount of boiled water, they never miss an opportunity to drain your wallet in this country. The extortion master did give us an opportunity to try yak butter tea, which on its own was rather bland but a great combination when we dipped bread from the large wheel donated from some local trekkers.

Arriving mid afternoon we sat down for a beer with the easily excitable monkey chained up outside the youth hostel in Upper Yubang and enjoyed the view of Lower Yubang village being located 1km down the mountain, with snow capped peaks and lush forest surrounding us. After a bit of persuasion I took a non refrigerated beer which turned out alright as the high altitude temperature kept the drinks cold enough. It also turned out the food prices were quite reasonable for the location and we did not need to carry backpacks full of noodles (mine quickly dispensed in the bin), I cant say the same for water that was double the price of beer, they even tried telling me its because of carrying weight when the beer comes in glass bottles!

Our hostel was rather basic but the rooms were cheap and I shared with Miles who came over on a program as part of his environmental studies in the US, this was his last stop before heading home. With two sights on the cards, a glacier lake and a sacred Tibetan waterfall, we planned to get up early and trek out to the lake which would take up most of the next day. The start was delayed somewhat by very unorganised hostel staff taking forever to bring our breakfasts. For lunch we purchased bags of cooked rice (unfortunately still sitting out from the night before), doused with soy and chili flakes for a little zest. A french couple whom we had met the day before joined us and we set off quickly veering on the wrong path through a dense but picaresque section of forest that later connected up with the main trail. Along the way plentiful raspberries and mushrooms were collected amongst the moss cloaked canopy floor.

Approaching the glacier lake we crossed a river that had its banks lined with hundreds of spiritual stone piles, symbolic of how important this area is to the local Tibetan religious community. The final hour provided views of a large snow peaked mountain, its blue glaciers glistening through gaps in the clouds. Although the lakes murky green colour was a bit of a disappointment, the numerous waterfalls running straight from the frozen ice peaks above provided a spectacular sight. Our crazy German mate even decided to take a quick dip much to the amusement of the Chinese who couldn't believe their eyes.

I spotted an accessible snow section on the other side of the lake and was determined to lay amongst the flakes after my early departure from the Everest trek. Thankful for the outstanding performance of my Goretex shoes crossing the waterfall runoff, I scurried up the rocky mountainside where my efforts were rewarded with basketball size icy snow balls to hurl down below, trying to forget the avalanche warning sign back on the other side of the lake. My little adventure was rewarded with a steaming hot bowl of yak milk, the taste probably closer to cream than conventional cows milk.

So there was no warm showers and with my lack of clothing options I was starting to stink a little, something which is a natural part of trekking and I hoped my companions would be willing to tolerate. Over an afternoon beer Miles decided he wanted to climb the mountain towering over lower Yubang. On the map it looked not much further than Lower Yubang where we had migrated for the night, although the 2,800m climb up to the 6,000m peak without any equipment was going to be a tough day. I was keen to join him if my stomach held up, which as per most hikes this trip was starting to turn (maybe the yak milk?). We enjoyed a sleepless night thanks to two roosters in the hallway, a cow who loved the sound of his bell and hideous music emanating from a room nearby. Setting out at 5am we stumbled through the dark to reach the sacred waterfall by sunrise and witness the Tibetian prayer rituals. At a closer inspection the mountain looked almost impossible to climb so I wished miles luck as he set off, my decision not to join him later confirmed appropriate when a local explained that its forbidden to climb due to a god (or spirit) who lives at the top.

I reach the waterfall early with the Czech girls before any of the Tibetans had arrived as they first visited a prayer cave and picked special branches to be burnt in the ceremony. We were rewarded with an absolutely beautiful sight of being surrounded by snow capped mountains while we stood amongst the prayer flags as great waterfalls crept down the rock face with a double rainbow beaming across their stride. It was one of those magical mornings that makes you really appreciate how lucky we are to enjoy such things in life.

Back at Lower Yubang we laid out on the grass for lunch, the mesmerising mountain back drop a perfect opportunity to relax before heading back this time to Nilong town, a less strenuous and more scenic route to arrange transportation to Filasi. The last section of the trek through steep cliffs felt like we were navigating the grand canyon, we even stopped for a delicious fresh cactus lunch.  Organising the mini van did end up with some heated words between one of the Czech girls who spoke basic  Chinese and the van driver who openly admitted that he was increasing the price because we were foreigners, again never missing an opportunity.