So I've been in South America just over 2 weeks and already spent nearly $800 on flights, this luxury will have to end if I am to maintain my budget. The option not to bus it up to Buenos Aires probably saved me 2 - 3 days and is a route uncommon for most backpackers. After checking in to Estoril hostel, my intention for a quiet night was quickly abolished after I found myself wearing another Aussie blokes jeans before we even made introductions, also the fact that a litre of vodka for less than $4 probably didn't help either!
Being in BA on a Sunday is a great chance to visit the market street, a single lane lined with stalls that stretches around a kilometre through the city. This unfortunate event for somebody who does not want to collect souvenirs so early in the trip, sells a huge variety of goods from local crafts, clothing, food and drinks, there is also plenty of street performances to keep one entertained. Another street along the way had some sort of Chilean festival, the Terrimoto stand that I had spotted was sold out by the time we made our return journey, just my luck!
In BA you are also able to take advantage of the black market exchange rate for USD. All you need to is wander along Florida Av in the city centre, where every few metres somebody will be calling out 'Cambio' which is Spanish for exchange. Once approached they will indicate the rate of the day and either perform the transaciton on the spot or lead you down a side ally to a small office. Don't worry it's all legit and I have not herd of anybody being ripped off.
The Breaking Bad fever was in the air as everybody attempted to make Mexican food and dress up somewhat for the series finale, something I had to avoid at all costs only watching up to series 2 so far. If you don't know what I'm talking about then I suggest you open a browser right now and download a few episodes. I decided on booking my bus to Iguazu through the hostel who were able to print the tickets on the spot at a discount rate, encouraging me to go the full deluxe Cama class.
My final morning in BA was spent wandering the city, the most impressive find was this huge catholic cemetery.. you may not be able to take money with you when you die but you an certainly build an impressive grave. The structures were generally looming statues indicating ones superior importance, with an internal room that in some cases descended deep in to the ground, plenty of bunk space for generations to come. It covered a considerable area in the city centre with endless streets full of these tombs that you could spend hours exploring.
In Argentina you have 3 classes of bus that offer varying degrees of seat reclining; Semi Cama which is 120, Cama which is 160 and Deluxe Cama which is 180. The Deluxe Cama (ok maybe its called something different, but the name is fitting) offers a few extra benefits like personal video entertainment system and a slightly better quality of food. For the journey which in my case was 18 hours you have a hostess who not only serves your food and makes sure you receive your blanket and pillows, they will also serve you wine and whiskey while your watching the latest blockbuster, far more impressive than any plane I have ever been on.
Initially I had planned to see Iguazu over the first afternoon and then a full day following, but upon arrival I was informed that 1 day would be plenty. Instead I walked down the river for a viewpoint T-junction in the river with Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil at each corner. Back at the hostel a bunch of Kiwi lads were making their best attempt at getting a BBQ going.
For me Iguazu was to be experienced from the Argentinian side which allows you to get closer to the bottom of the falls. I decided to skip the Brazil side and the associated Visa hassles for Australian although apparently it offers a great panoramic view. I spent the morning walking around with a young German who has spent the past few months doing volunteer work in Bolivia and we explored the lower and middle paths. At one point you can get so close to the roaring water that after a single photo you are completely drenched.
These falls which are split amongst almost 300 falls over 3km and up to 80m high, are an extremely powerful example of natures ability to impress even the most seasoned traveller, its a shame that I will struggle to be impressed by any other falls from here on. I didn't take much convincing to book a boat ride that drove literally underneath the falls and lets you get an up close experience of the water hammering down, especially for the lucky ones who sat up the front of the boat.
After an enormous buffer lunch I took the short train ride up to Devils Throat, a walkway that leads along the top of one section of the falls. The water is gushing down with such force that huge mist clouds rise and falls like the breath of a giant beast. Apparently they used to run boat tours in the early 1900's until one guide couldn't paddle fast enough and his boat was swallowed by the falls, none survived.
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